Cultural History of Western Fashion

Introduction

1.The Commercialization of Fashion
Dress and Society in Europe Before the Twentieth Century
Social Implications of Dress
The Rise of Haute Couture
Charles Frederick Worth
The Rise of Consumerism
The Social Equalizer of the Department Store

2.The Artistry of Fashion
Artist-Led Workshops
Haute Couture at the Turn of the Twentieth Century
Paul Poiret: King of Fashion
The Goddess Silhouettes of Vionnet and Fortuny
Sonia Delaunay: Simultaneous Contrast of Colours
Elsa Schiaparelli: Surrealism in Fashion

3.The Democratization of Fashion
Changes in Commerce and Social Structure
The Art of Fashion Advertising
Flooding the American Market: Reproductions and Fakes
Coco Chanel: Pauvrete De Luxe
Jean Patou: Style meets Scandal
Fashion and Functionalist Theory
Stepanova and Popova: Russian Constructivism
Dressing Thousands: The Birth of Pret-A-Porter

4.The Americanization of Fashion
Slop Shops, Sweatshops, and Factory Work
Fit and Function
Piracy in Fashion
American Couture
The 'American Look' in Ready-to-Wear
Changes in Menswear: Shirts, Jeans, and Suits
Fashion in Film: Costume Designer as Couturier
Fashion as Sociopolitical Statement: Zoot Suits

5.The Popularization of Fashion
Haute Couture Following the Second World War
Christobal Balenciaga
Christian Dior
Yves Saint Laurent
Andre Courreges
Pierre Cardin
Clothing and Popular Culture
The Swinging '60s in London
Mary Quant
Alternative Fashion
Zandra Rhodes
Laura Ashley

6.The Postmodernization of Fashion
Postmodernism in Fashion and Art
The Rejection of Fashion
Vivienne Westwood: Anarchy as Inspiration
Fashion and Music
Anti-Fashion as Feminism
Japanese Conceptual Fashion: Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo
Redefining Popular Culture Through Heritage
Contextualization

7.The Deviance of Fashion
Franco Moschino
Viktor & Rolf
Martin Margiela
Alexander McQueen
Harajuku Street Fashion
Fashion Imagery and Notions of Gender Construction
The Reinvention of Menswear

8.The Lifestyle of Fashion
American Sportswear Designers
Ralph Lauren
Calvin Klein
Donna Karan
Redefining Womenswear: Power Dressing
Fashion as Ideological Billboard
Street Style on the Catwalk

9.The Corporatization of Fashion
Global Conglomerates
LVMH: The Super Syndicate
Luxury Heritage Branding
The Designer as Product
Fashion as Philanthropy and Installation
Perfume: A License to Make Money
The Death of Haute Couture?
Counterfeit Chic
Ecommerce and Online Shopping

10.The Sustainability of Fashion
The Origins of Disposable Fashion
Industry Issues: Waste, Pollution, and Labour
Sustainable Alternatives
Green is the New Black
Vintage Clothing as Recycling
Other Sustainable Approaches
Ethical Concerns

11.The Digitization of Fashion
Virtual Couture
Technology in Fashion: A brief history
Fashion and Technology in the 21st Century
Hussein Chalayan
Iris van Herpen
Fashion as Future and Fantasy
Representation and Inclusivity in Fashion

Conclusion
Notes
Glossary
Bibliography

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• Moda e sociedade
• História da moda
• Teoria do design de moda

dress; society; 20th century; sociology; consumer; haute couture; schiaparelli; silhouette; commerce; chanel; style; Pret-A-Porter; ready-to-wear; dior; mary quant; vivienne westwood; feminism; calvin klein; LVMH; fast fashion; iris van herpen; inclusivity